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I picked this one up close to the same time as the Braids holster for the LC9(s) with CT laser (that I converted to Lasermax GS). It took a little time to track down the edge cote (edge coating, but the product name is spelled "cote") to the color chance. The local Tandy leather had run out in the Fall, and they will not ship it in the winter for fear of freeze damage ruining it. Had to order off Amazon.

Triple K has stopped making Ruger P-Series holsters, so they are limited in selection (right hand only, brown color only), on clearance/deal, and available from a couple Ebay sellers. They call this a "Back Up Holster" and have it in two options, one version for P94/P94/P95/P-44 (#430-63 stamped in the holster), and a second version for P85-P89 (No idea if the number stamped in that model is different, the website shows a SKU #17-430 for both). It's the same cut for both, but they mold for the two different shapes. The P94/P93 version is molded for the longer P94, and you just tighten the retention screw down a little to hold snug on the smaller P93. It is possible that this holster will also work with the P97, which are similarly shaped. I also would expect the P85/P89 holster would fit the P90 and P91, which should be the same exterior dimensions as the P85/P89.
The molding seemed a little tight around the slide lock lever on both sides. I worked it over some to get the shape more tapered by positioning the pistol not fully seated in the holster, and pressing around the high spots so that it would allow the pistol to move out without catching so hard on these spots.

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Amber Wood Electric blue Peach Wallet

The design and details are a little different from the Braids holster for the LC9(s). Most of it I like better. It has a more heavy duty construction, which makes sense, because it is carrying a pistol that is double the weight. Lots of double row stitching and reinforced edges and openings. Inserts inside form a channel to protect the front sight. The edges are coated so they are smooth. An adjustable retention screw.
The design differs in the opening end belt loop, which is stitched on behind the grip, instead of a slot cut in the clam shell body. This reduces the length of the holster so that it is almost exactly the same size as the Braids holster for the LC9(s). This means that the grip of the pistol is going to stick out farther toward the right, and the end of the slide and frame are less covered and less protected form whatever you might bump into while wearing it.
The inside of the holster is exposed split cow hide, untreated, and quite a bit rougher than the Braids for LC9(s). In brown, this works well. It's ready to go out of the package, if you like brown.
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One annoyance is that this holster (and probably the version for P89/P90/P91) is made specifically for the safety version of the pistol, with the lever in the down or safe position. The safety leaver will hit and interfere with the mouth of the opening in the up position, and the Decocker version of the pistol is a no-go, without some changes to either the pistol or the holster. Triple K are definitely using a blue gun plastic model for design and forming. These molds are of the safety version of the pistol, and they have the fit and clearance set for that option only.

I'm not a brown leather person. Just not in my personality. It's a beautiful color of brown, but for belts and shoes, everything I have is black. So this was going to be a re-dye.
The color change was a little more of an adventure than the remolding on the Braids LC9(s) to fit the Lasermax GS laser.
There were a couple gaps in the application of the edge coating, and I was not sure if the dye would penetrate and change the color. And I decided to dye the inside, which was going to add another layer of concern.
Steps were pretty much the same, but I had to figure out where the edge coat went into the mix.
1. Deglaze and whip down with alcohol. I did this twice. It did not make an obvious change to the gloss of the finish. Not sure if I got it all off.
2. Apply dye. Two coats on the inside, four on the outside. Used a small paint brush to get into the inside pockets and crevasses around the trigger guard and the pocket for the retention screw rubber ring. The leather on the outside looked almost copper color when wet. Not sure if this is the previous finish or the minerals in the dye. I was worried, so I probably overdyed it. The color looks more even and black after the second sheen coat.
The stitching is in a white thread that looks like it might be cotton. Along the outside it picked up the color pretty good, but getting the dye into the stitch holes was a challenge with a small paint brush. The stitching on the inside did not pick up the color as well.
This is the point where I discovered that the dye would not penetrate the brown edge cote, dried on the surface, and built up a crust. It had to be removed with acetone before the next step.
3. Apply the edge cote coating to the edges. Some spots were difficult to get to. Used a q-tip for the easy spots and a small paint brush for the difficult spots. The overlap of the reinforcing panel at the opening was a pain to keep clean.
4. Conditioner. The same neats foot / mink oil blend as before. Two or three coats inside, four outside.
5. Sheen to protect the surface. Outside only. Two coats. Super sheen was all that was available, a little overly glossy, but not too bad.

The uncoated split leather on the inside is allowing a little rub off of the black dye. It's not excessive. The solution would be to rub with a cotton cloth until it stops rubbing off, but the texture grips so much just rips the cloth out of your hand.
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I've left the pistol in the holster several days. The fit is back to what it was before dying it. The adjustment on the retention screw is pretty sensitive. Just a tiny bit of tightening and it is good.
We're in Summer weather now, so this one might not get a good road test until Fall and Winter.
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