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Looks like I will try to polish the internals again. The pull is marginally better, but no where near the 2 1/2 to 3 pound pull I am looking for. I do not have a gauge but would like to come closer to my Browning buckmark pull.
I think this will also require removing material from the hammer to reduce the ledge that the sear sets in. I hope this will reduce the length of the pull. And a better job of polishing that area will reduce the weight.
Any thoughts from members more experienced than me? Next step will be to just be satisfied or order from volquartsen. The iv is more reliable than the Camper but I am more accurate by far with the camper over the iv. I want to make it a real “shooter”.
 

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Welcome to the forum 101st! I found that having a trigger pull gauge enhances the hobby gunsmithing experience greatly. When I was a kid my first gauge was made from Dad's fish scale. I believe my digital gauge cost me about $30. It will store hi and low and average I think 8 pulls. Den
 
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Invest in a Lyman Digital Scale. If you do a lot of trigger work it's well worth the price.

I tried doing my own trigger job on my Mark IV 22/45 Lite and got it down form a horrible 6 + pounds to 3.4. It still wasn't what I wanted so I bought the Volquartsen Accurizing Kit and my trigger went down to 1.5 pounds. Since I shoot competition with it it was well worth the money.
 

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Looks like I will try to polish the internals again. The pull is marginally better, but no where near the 2 1/2 to 3 pound pull I am looking for. I do not have a gauge but would like to come closer to my Browning buckmark pull.
I think this will also require removing material from the hammer to reduce the ledge that the sear sets in. I hope this will reduce the length of the pull. And a better job of polishing that area will reduce the weight.
Any thoughts from members more experienced than me? Next step will be to just be satisfied or order from volquartsen. The iv is more reliable than the Camper but I am more accurate by far with the camper over the iv. I want to make it a real “shooter”.
You will indeed need to use a "trigger pull gauge" to see just what your trigger pull weight is now, and then during your progress as you go along.
Working on the hammer notch for the sear, without the proper set-up, things can go terribly wrong in a heart-beat. Reducing the length of that notch will reduce "creep", or, the amount of contact between the sear face and the hammer notch, but consider, the length of engagement from the factory runs from 0.018 to around 0.022 thousandths of an inch, which is not easy to measure without powerful magnification:

How are you currently maintaining flatness and perpendicularity of the sear face to the hammer notch? I've reworked a ton of Ruger Mark sears and hammers over the years, and I don't see how that can be done safely and properly without this fixture keeping things in alignment:

Some claim they can do it, but I've also had many sent in to be redone.
Good luck with your endeavors. hope it all goes well.
 

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Welcome to the forum 101st! I found that having a trigger pull gauge enhances the hobby gunsmithing experience greatly. When I was a kid my first gauge was made from Dad's fish scale. I believe my digital gauge cost me about $30. It will store hi and low and average I think 8 pulls. Den
My Lyman digital gauge is the best one I've owned so far, over the years. It uses an internal "load cell" that works like a strain gauge to record trigger pull weight. Much better and more accurate than the Ohaus and other spring operated pull gauges I still have around here somewhere.
It's nice to be able to get the average of 10 readings with just the push of a button. Mine is as handy as I can get it on my bench to check and record firearm trigger pull weight, which is sorta handy for me as I don't have a calibrated trigger finger.
 

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If you are looking for the real shooter you mentioned, I'd spend for the accurizing kit. The better engagement surfaces plus the ability to set pre and over travel on the trigger should give you what you are looking for. I have zero experience with Mk IV though so all above is in reference to Volquartsen Mk II and Mk III kits/parts I've installed over the last 20 years. By the time Mk IV came out, I was too deep into full Scorpion pistols to bother switching back to Ruger.
 

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Just joined.

Recently purchased a MK IV 22/45, shot several hundred rounds through it and found the pistol accurate with an average trigger.

I was getting ready to purchase an "Accurazing Kit" to smooth the trigger but spending $130 to $150 for the kit and discarding perfectly good parts after purchasing the pistol is a bit much. The only items in the kit that seem worthwhile to me is the sear and adjustable trigger. Discarding the magazine disconnect was a bonus but something easily done without the kit.

Smoothing, polishing and tuning existing parts is the way guns were refined and improved in the past before "drop in kits" were marketed. I was going to polish internals myself until I saw SGW's threads and posts regarding the kits and found the Tuning and Smoothing Service for $77.50 on the SGW Gunsmith website. The price seemed reasonable and having an actual gunsmith tuning it would be a huge improvement over my amateur attempt. Dennis' responses to my questions were honest and competent. He actually advised waiting until he had examined the pistol before adding any of my requested parts to it. I sent the MK IV to SGW yesterday for tuning.

I don't know what the trigger pull weight of my MK IV was when I sent it to Dennis but the action was not smooth. I'm not as concerned about the pull weight - a smooth, short, predictable trigger pull is more desirable. And if the trigger pull weight is reduced by the tuning - a bonus!

The last pistol I had tuned by a gunsmith resulted in a trigger that was very smmoth. It was a 1911 that have inherent smooth, light triggers but the improvement was noticeable. I think a custom pistol tune will outperform a generic drop in kit on my MK IV.
 
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