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Lots of people say its crap, but I've never really heard any first hand experience. Everybody seems to say "I had a friend who..."

Most rumors are based in fact but I'm wondering if anybody has ever used the stuff and if its worth a try. Its a lot cheaper, especially in .223.
 

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Usually it is much dirtier to shoot, many ranges do not allow steel case (Wolf), and the primers tend to be harder (Wolf). This a concern in the .223 for the Ruger Mini 14 which have a softer firing pin. ;)
 

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I shot a couple of boxes of Tula 9mm through my PF9. It performed as well as any other ammo I've tried. It fed fine, and didn't seem to be any dirtier than WWB.

Most of the steel cased stuff is probably made overseas. Most of it is probably not SAAMI compliant. The steel case would probably be a bit harder on the extractor than brass would. A lot of ranges won't let you use steel ammo for one reason or another. Most of it is probably Berdan primed, so it's not easily reloadable. And if you are talking about the older stuff, some of it might have corrosive primers.

BTW, I have since found out that Kel Tec does not recommend using non-SAAMI-compliant ammo in the PF9.
 

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I've shot blazers and brown bear through both the LCP and the Glock 26. Not one failure. In the Glock I've shot probably close to 3000 rounds of the brown bear. It's only $10 box of 50 here. So when I have a bunch of shooting to do that doesn't count lol, thats what I get. Honestly I think it runs cleaner through the glock than the WWB.

I've shot quite a few Blazers through Elsie, probably 300 rounds, and no problems whatsoever. I clean her after every shooting, and don't really notice much. I do hear some indoor ranges won't let you shoot them, but I never hear any complaints from anyone I shoot with about them.
 

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Some folks believe that steel on steel is not a good thing.....
May cause some parts or barrel to wear out sooner....

Do a google search and check it out...... :eek:
 

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Most of the steel cased stuff I've seen is either copper washed (plated) or lacquered, so the only steel on steel contact would be at the extractor and ejector.

I just shot some Blazer in my LCP, and it did fine too. I thought Blazer was aluminum cases.
 

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leadchucker said:
I thought Blazer was aluminum cases.
...right you are, lc. Aluminum I can handle...the steel cased isn't for me...way too dirty. The dirty round is mostly because the steel case doesn't provide the seal that brass affords, thus more burnt propellant escapes rearward into the action. YMMV

Tarheel
 

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The steel casings are dipped in lacquer and in the case of shooting an AR or Mini-14 the lacquer will actually start melting and create a residue in the barrel and action making it harder to cycle. To clean lacquer you would need thinner and a steel brush. In my opinion, even though it's cheaper, I would try something else.
 

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Cabellas had a local store sale on Herters 380 steel case ammo a while back. I took a chance and bought 500 rounds. They cost $6.50 per box of 50. I shot all 500 rounds without a single problem. My lcp is fine, chamber is fine, and the extractor is sharp like new.
This particular ammo kicked like a mule and was very consistent. Your gun and hands will get dirty shooting this ammo.

We have shot 1000's of rounds of steel case ammo with our akm's, ar's. fal's and have yet have the polymer coating melt or the steel case damage our weapons in any way. We tested all these theories and found out they were just theories. Den
 

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I've got both a mini 14 and a mini 30 that have digested 1000's of rounds of Wolf without a problem. Lots of 9mm through a Glock 17, also with no a problem. Don't know what, if anything they would do to an AR. Maybe not a fair comparison, because the minis and the Glocks will pretty much go bang with whatever you can get in the fire tube.
 

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I have run a couple boxes thru my .45s (Ruger P95 and H&K USP) no problems other than it is dirty but I avoid it. Can't comment on long term use
 

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I grabbed a couple of boxes of Tula .380 and 9mm from walmart a while back. It is very dirty ammo. My P89 ate it like an appetizer, but it will shoot anything you put in it and laugh. The LCP had a couple FTF, but ate most of it. I did not worry about wear on the LCP cause I was still in the break in period and wanted some wear. I wouldn't shoot it often cause I hate it when my guns (hands, face, lol) get that dirty. Every now and then shouldn't hurt much. I much prefer brass.
 

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I heard it's a Russian conspiracy to ruin American firearms. ;D

Seriously though, think about it a minute. It's a little cheaper but not much. It's harder on the guns but not much. If you've ruined a good gun shooting steel case ammo because it was cheaper you had to shoot a lot and you probably save enough money to pay for a new gun.
 

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les strat said:
..... The LCP had a couple FTF, but ate most of it. ....
What does "FTF" mean in your post? There are two common definitions - "Failure to Fire" or "Failure to Feed".

We really do need to avoid ambiguous abbreviations. ;)
 

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The Russians and other former communist bloc countries have made steel cased ammo for a long time. The guns they build are designed to use it.

Commie ammo for Commie guns.
 

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SkipD said:
les strat said:
..... The LCP had a couple FTF, but ate most of it. ....
What does "FTF" mean in your post? There are two common definitions - "Failure to Fire" or "Failure to Feed".

We really do need to avoid ambiguous abbreviations. ;)
Feed.... as with most tiny semi-autos. Sorry
 

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Lots of people say its crap, but I've never really heard any first hand experience. Everybody seems to say "I had a friend who..."

Most rumors are based in fact but I'm wondering if anybody has ever used the stuff and if its worth a try. Its a lot cheaper, especially in .223.
Allegedly bolt thrust is higher with steel cased ammunition. I've never seen any experiments done with steel versus brass to show one way or the other if this is true, in which firearms it might be true and how much higher the bolt thrust could be with steel versus brass cased rounds. I don't think that the difference is that much.

My guess, sitting here, is that the "weld" that brass cases are supposed to get doesn't do as much as simple inertia of the components of the firearm.

Best evidence to me is the HK series of firearms. Why would HK bother to flute the interior of their chambers if steel cases had higher bolt thrust and easier extraction than brass cases? Why not just restrict HKs to steel cases?

The original Gerat 06 device, and the Schwarzlose machine guns, both had problems with case head separation. The designers of the Gerat 06 (the ancestor of the G3 rifle) used fluting of the interior of the chamber. The Schwarzlose used a system that prelubricated the cartridges.


I would guess that brass cased ammunition is more resistant to oxidation and that possibly a company can get a longer production run with dies for cases that use brass than annealed steel. I am guessing though, we need information.

Obturation of cases, the "seal" around the mouth, could be an issue. I own some Beretta handguns. They do not use extractors - the cases come out of the chamber under higher pressure. They are no more dirty than the cases fired from my Keltec P32.

When I use brass cased rounds or aluminum cased rounds in my Makarovs they seem cleaner than when I use steel cases. Makarovs get pretty dirty.

So I see some evidence of differences but nothing "conclusive".
 

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I grabbed a couple of boxes of Tula .380 and 9mm from walmart a while back. It is very dirty ammo. My P89 ate it like an appetizer, but it will shoot anything you put in it and laugh. The LCP had a couple FTF, but ate most of it. I did not worry about wear on the LCP cause I was still in the break in period and wanted some wear. I wouldn't shoot it often cause I hate it when my guns (hands, face, lol) get that dirty. Every now and then shouldn't hurt much. I much prefer brass.
There are lots of reasons for 'dirty' such as how the round is loaded and what combustion products dominate. The dirtiest that my Makarovs ever got was from Silver Bear, followed closely by Prvi Partisan which is brass cased. Could be the propellants.

I am very careful with magazine care in the LCP. The LCP uses a single column magazine, those tend to have more drag than double stack magazines. The springs in LCP magazines tend to be lighter than I prefer. The issue with going too strong on magazine springs is that it raises the feeding force - you raise friction forces on the feed lips and on the round below. This affects reliability of the action. The magazines are lightly blued and seem to attract surface rust. I am often wiping the magazines down.

I have friends who fiddle with recoil springs and magazine springs on the LCP. I prefer to leave things stock. The handgun itself isn't bad to shoot, it's very easy to conceal. Easier than most other handguns, including the Beretta Tomcat. A 380 with full metal jacket has good penetration in tissue simulant.

The LCP is a well made handgun. One should keep it very clean, free of pocket lint and not too much lubrication.



The P Series handguns.... it's a mystery to me why Ruger abandoned them. I have some in 40 S&W and like them very much. I think a scaled up P series handgun in 10mm would have been a nice handgun. Been a good competitor to the Tanfoglio Witness or Glock 20.
 
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