Yep, that's the way I do it....
32Special said:I understand that this is a common problem. My "inner" recoil spring slipped over the head of my guide rod after several hundred rounds. I received the replacement springs and rod that I ordered a few days ago, and finally got around to installing them today.
The "inner" spring is flared on one end to about the same diameter as the head of the guide rod. The outer spring is about the same diameter as the head of the guide rod. When assembled the way I think they came from the factory, the outer spring actually rests on the flared coil of the inner spring.
It occured to me that if the inner spring were reversed that both the inner and outer springs would rest directly against the guide rod head. Because the tip of the guide rod protrudes into the slide, both springs would be fully captured. Assembling this way might prevent having the innner spring slip over the guide rod head.
I put it together this way, and it seems to be just fine. Has anyone else tried this solution to the spring issue?
My old eyes couldn't notice a difference either. Maybe one of you younger guys can point out a difference.WVleo said:A photo or drawing of the proper spring set up would help the dyslestic older men like myself who never finished the directions putting the kids toys together X-mas LOL........WVleo
Yup, sure have been. the 13# kt recoil springs sold by wolffs. (gunsprings.com). works great, brass doesn't fly near as far, I think I read somewhere that the lcp springs were rated at around 10# I might been dreamin to). the extra strength wolffs springs for the kt come up to 13#. drops right in, works for my lcp.It is listed under the kt32 springs.Sassi said:Is anyone using springs other than the stock Ruger LCP springs?
oh yes remember the kt comments very well. They are not necessary, indeed at all. The Ruger springs work great, my original kt springs worked ok also. Will these help a reloader find his brass easier, hell I haven,t a clue. It will bring the brass casing closer and I was not a 380 reloader so I didn't really care about that, My feelings with the kt heavier springs were that if indeed they did work and if indeed it did seem to shorten the length of the distance some that also it was being alittle kinder to the over all wear and tear of the slide/frame. Whether that is true or not, again just my guess and opinion.kraigster414 said:That is good to know Jocko becuase as a .380 reloader, my biggest complaint, is that I can only find a fraction of my spent brass at the range. Most of them seem to go into a black hole and let's face it, like everything else today, replacement brass is expensive. I never thought to use the 13# Wolff. I know some folks had hearburn against using it as a replacement in their stock P3AT recoil spring, they said it was unnecessary, etc. etc. I can't comment one way or the other.
Mine did not come with the flared spring. We will see what she has when she comes back from Prescott. Just for clarification, do you mean the flare is toward the muzzle end ?the flared end of the inner spring goes towards the front of the guide rod, not the head end.
Mine came back from Prescott with the new flared inner spring and yes the flare goes towards the muzzle end.Billy-Bob2 said:Mine did not come with the flared spring. We will see what she has when she comes back from Prescott. Just for clarification, do you mean the flare is toward the muzzle end ?the flared end of the inner spring goes towards the front of the guide rod, not the head end.
Mine came back installed backwards too._87120_ said:Mine came with the large end of the inner spring toward the "head" of the guide rod, towards the handle end of the gun. I shot 50 rounds on the first time out with no problems. Then another 100 on the second time out with FTF about 70% of the time. I had to tap the heel of slide with my off hand to get it to feed. I had plenty of grease on the rails from it's prefiring inspection and cleaning. I hope the gun is just breaking in and not a lemon. I hate buying new stuff that's broken out of the box.
When I cleaned it after the second round of shooting, I noticed a lot of build-up of copper or whatever the Remington UMC FMJ ball ammo is coated with on the feed ramp. I always hit the feed ramp and breech with a brass tooth brush. Does Remington use a soft lead bullet? I've heard many other people grousing about UMC ammo on other forums but that's all I would find in town.
I also found that the large end of the inner spring had worked over the head of the guide rod. Can it hit the sides of the slide? I didn't see any wear marks I didn't expect to see.
380 ammo in Albuquerque is non-existent in any gun store, Wallies, etc. at this time. I guess those 87k LCPs Ruger sold hit the ammo shelves like a ton of bricks, lol. I have some on Sellier & Bellot FMJ, some Golden Sabers and Some Critical Defence on order. If I still have FTF issues, I wonder if the KT springs would help.
Dan in ABQ