Ruger Pistol Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all this is my second ruger standard that I have had for several years. SS model target barrel. I have always with trepidation and fear taken these apart to clean and resulting frustration has resulted in my choosing other guns to shoot. Well I got the urge to shoot it and again took it down for cleaning. Came apart great. Bolt disassembled, barrel assembly removed from frame, etc,etc. After much effort (again) got it back together. Now bolt only pulls back about half way. Disassembled again, reassemble, same. Went thru this three times with same results. Watched YouTube videos till I'm blue in the face. Still no luck. WHY do I still own these guns when I can complete disassemble glock, 1911, sig and reassemble with no trouble (not to mention shotguns). I must like pain.... So any ideas? What am I missing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
JDB,

Welcome to the RPF! (y)

Sorry to hear about your Ruger Mk assembly struggles. Not sure if this would be any help, but I put the attached assembly procedures together 30 years ago and it hasn't failed me yet...maybe you might find your solution there?!?

Happy New Year 2021 Everyone!

Ted

Ruger Standard-MkI-MkII-MkIII Upper-Lower Re-Assembly.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
I feel your pain. My first pistol was a MKiii 22/45. Sold it because I couldn't put together consistently. I missed it so I bought another. then a MKiv, then a Standard (built in 1955)

For me the 'aha' was when I understood what the position of the hammer and hammer-strut was supposed to be.
Before you close the main spring, the hammer should be in the 'fired' position. the hammer-strut has to be free to move to engage with the take-down lever. You may have to point the gun up and/or down. You may have to squeeze the trigger. you may have to shake the gun. If you got it right you should feel a little spring tension when you close the take-down lever.

Welcome to the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
"Before you close the main spring, the hammer should be in the 'fired' position. the hammer-strut has to be free to move to engage with the take-down lever. "
To be a bit more accurate as to HOW the hammer strut needs to be positioned, the hammer strut has nothing to do with the "mainspring housing latch lever".
The bottom end of the strut needs to find its way into the concave top of the mainspring plunger on top of the mainspring housing assembly.
Try this process, as it will be much more rewarding for what your intentions seek:

• Install the upper onto the grip frame, and make sure that the bolt stop pin is aligned correctly through the receiver and grip frame. A good way to verify this is to insert the bolt stop pin from the top of the receiver. See picture below. Once you have achieved perfect alignment remove the mainspring housing assembly.
• Install the bolt and push it all the way forward. Then reach into the open back of the grip frame with a 1/8 punch, and push the hammer as far forward as it will go. A #2 pencil with an eraser on it works well also. You will then notice that the very bottom of the hammer strut is slightly below the sear spring pin for the longer leg of the sear spring.
• Next, tilt the pistols muzzle end upward around 45° so that the hammer strut will freely swing backward and center itself OVER the aforementioned "spring cup" in the assembly.
• Then. insert the bolt stop pin up and through the grip frame and receiver holes previously aligned. Push that up forcefully until you feel it "click" into place
• The last step involves pushing the mainspring housing assembly in, until that assembly is around ¼ inch from being completely in. You will begin to feel some very slight resistance. Then, push the mainspring housing assembly all the way in and flip the latch up to lock it in place.

That's the proper way that it's done, and you should now see that the "mainspring housing latch" is the very last feature involved with reassembly. When done correctly, you will then be able to freely pull your bolt all the way back at will.

Here's the picture as to how verifying upper and lower alignment is guaranteed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
344 Posts
First of all this is my second ruger standard that I have had for several years. SS model target barrel. I have always with trepidation and fear taken these apart to clean and resulting frustration has resulted in my choosing other guns to shoot. Well I got the urge to shoot it and again took it down for cleaning. Came apart great. Bolt disassembled, barrel assembly removed from frame, etc,etc. After much effort (again) got it back together. Now bolt only pulls back about half way. Disassembled again, reassemble, same. Went thru this three times with same results. Watched YouTube videos till I'm blue in the face. Still no luck. WHY do I still own these guns when I can complete disassemble glock, 1911, sig and reassemble with no trouble (not to mention shotguns). I must like pain.... So any ideas? What am I missing?
People say to me with all the Rugers i own why don't i have a standard in my collection, your issues are what scares me off. I've read to many horror stories.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
People say to me with all the Rugers i own why don't i have a standard in my collection, your issues are what scares me off. I've read to many horror stories.
Horror stories? How about sharing a few of those?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
344 Posts
Horror stories? How about sharing a few of those?
I can't quote verbatim but i belong to a few forums and there's always a handful of members that talk about the cussing and angst they go through in reassembling them ... I don't mean to disrespect you sir if you have it figured out, i've never had the chance to reassemble one so i don't have first hand knowledge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
I can't quote verbatim but i belong to a few forums and there's always a handful of members that talk about the cussing and angst they go through in reassembling them ... I don't mean to disrespect you sir if you have it figured out, i've never had the chance to reassemble one so i don't have first hand knowledge.
My horror-story:
My first-ever pistol was a mkiii-22/45. I am mechanically inclined. I believe it is good for the user to be able to field-strip, clean and reassemble their firearm. I disassembled after way too much effort. Cleaned and lubed. I could not reassemble to a functioning condition. Took to LGS. They couldn't figure it out and were to send it to Ruger for me. The next day they called to say they figured it out. $25.
After that I cleaned it best as I could without disassembly. Paid to have it cleaned when it got dirty enough to effect function. Eventually I sold the gun.

I, otherwise, really liked that platform. I bought another and forced myself to learn. Then another then another .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,506 Posts
We had a MK 1 when I was a kid in the 60's. I had no problem taking it apart right there on the kitchen table. There was probably something wrong with it because D&A was easy. LOL Den
 
  • Like
Reactions: SGW Gunsmith

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UPDATE:. Well after a couple more attempts to assemble the gun and getting frustrated more, I finally tried one more time this morning and got it together. Honestly don't know what I did different this time. NEVER again. Off to the local LGS and start researching other options. I know this is not the time politically to buy, but I'm done with this.

I DO want to thank everyone for your help. I tried the suggestions and I'm sure they helped, but it's still "black box magic" to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
UPDATE:. Well after a couple more attempts to assemble the gun and getting frustrated more, I finally tried one more time this morning and got it together. Honestly don't know what I did different this time. NEVER again. Off to the local LGS and start researching other options. I know this is not the time politically to buy, but I'm done with this.

I DO want to thank everyone for your help. I tried the suggestions and I'm sure they helped, but it's still "black box magic" to me.

I'd come over and help you but I don't know where you live.

For OP and anyone who comes here for reference, I have this pics of the hammer strut for reassembly. It appears the videos don't always do it justice.

Here is one pic of where it should not be.
15258


And one of where it should be.

15260


Ruger was nice enough to show a cutaway in their print ad for the "New Mark ll" showing the proper relationship between the hammer strut and the main spring.

15262


Here is the entire image.

15263
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info. After the previous replies I was able to get the mainspring housing and hammer strut in position(I think) but had a devil of a time getting the.mainspring housing to close. As I would push it in the spring housing pin which goes thru the.bolt and top of barrel upper would lever down. After many attempts it finally went in and locked down. Must have been holding my mouth right that time. Three days of effort to get it closed🤪
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
UPDATE:. Well after a couple more attempts to assemble the gun and getting frustrated more, I finally tried one more time this morning and got it together. Honestly don't know what I did different this time. NEVER again. Off to the local LGS and start researching other options. I know this is not the time politically to buy, but I'm done with this.

I DO want to thank everyone for your help. I tried the suggestions and I'm sure they helped, but it's still "black box magic" to me.
Great to read! Sometimes that's just what it may take, stop and walk away for a while. Later, come back with a more determined attitude.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I got offered $50 by a stranger last week to put his Mark III back together. I talked him through it and he got it on the first try. Once you've done it correctly a few times you can do it in less than 10 minutes.

It's a great gun. If you don't want to go through taking it apart for cleaning just run a nylon brush and few wet patches down the barrel until they come out white. Use Carb cleaner to wash out the lower without taking it off. Use a toothbrush to get into the space that's hard.

I know people that have run many thousands of rounds without cleaning the Rugers. It can handle it.

I now have Mark IVs and clean them after every session because they are so easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
The owner of this pistol brought it in 'cause it just "couldn't handle it" any longer:



After a 24 hour soak in my solvent tank, the bolt started working like new once again, for some reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
...So any ideas? What am I missing?
Your hammer strut is jammed either against the sear spring pin or is hanging up next to the mainspring plunger.
I had the same problem.
Turn your pistol muzzle up at a 45° angle so the strut is dangling. As you close the mainspring housing SLOWLY, watch the strut engage the guide well machined next to the MS plunger. Give it a wiggle as you close it. YOU SHOULD GET A SPRINGY FEEL THE LAST 1/4" OF TRAVEL. That is the strut engaged in the center of the MS plunger.
Close and your done..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
Post #11 shows some very good pictures as to how it's done.
 

·
Registered
M9 custom, Ruger MK II work in progress, Rem. 700 in 7.62, winchester 290, remington 870
Joined
·
14 Posts
I'd come over and help you but I don't know where you live.

For OP and anyone who comes here for reference, I have this pics of the hammer strut for reassembly. It appears the videos don't always do it justice.

Here is one pic of where it should not be.
View attachment 15258

And one of where it should be.

View attachment 15260

Ruger was nice enough to show a cutaway in their print ad for the "New Mark ll" showing the proper relationship between the hammer strut and the main spring.

View attachment 15262

Here is the entire image.

View attachment 15263
the 2nd picture shows a handy little modification i recently purchased for my MK II pop out a pin, slide it in, and pop the pin back in and the hammer strut cant get locked behind that pin anymore. heres a pic of the part so you can identify it in the photo, but with this installed its more worrying about the hammer position than worrying about jiggling the hammer strut into place.
15324
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top