[Gomofast]

There are lots of threads about this, but I couldn't find any videos on how to do it, so I made one. It's really easy, enjoy...

I hope this becomes a "sticky".

 

[AznDragon533]

Does anyone know where I can find a stainless steel take down pin?

 

[RICHGCOOP]

A very well done video. THANKS FOR POSTING, IT WILL HELP A LOT OF PEOPLE.

RICHGCOOP

 

[charlieboy]

Thanks, Gomofast
Great video

 

[Gomofast]

A very well done video. THANKS FOR POSTING, IT WILL HELP A LOT OF PEOPLE.

Thanks RICHGCOOP, that's what I was hoping for.

 

[davidj]

Thank You Richard

 

[RET.UMOS]

Bravo! Nicely done.

 

[mwcurl]

Very well done

 

[Nomad]

Great video, worthy of being a sticky IMO. Thanks for creating the video.

 

[Mr_Shamrock]

I was looking at the design after seeing this thread - for the record I haven't had an issue with my pin yet. What do you think of this idea? Drilling a small hole on the right side of the frame that is smaller than the end of the pin, but large enough to get a small punch or other tool in. This way the pin head doesn't have to be pried on for removal it can simply be pushed out from the right side. I have always felt funny about prying against the frame for take down anyway. The hole would be through the polymer and actually would only consist of enlarging the tiny hole that is there now and continuing it through the side just a bit (if you look at your Elsie you will see what I mean).

 

[SkipD]

I was looking at the design after seeing this thread - for the record I haven't had an issue with my pin yet. What do you think of this idea? Drilling a small hole on the right side of the frame that is smaller than the end of the pin, but large enough to get a small punch or other tool in. This way the pin head doesn't have to be pried on for removal it can simply be pushed out from the right side. I have always felt funny about prying against the frame for take down anyway. The hole would be through the polymer and actually would only consist of enlarging the tiny hole that is there now and continuing it through the side just a bit (if you look at your Elsie you will see what I mean).

There is currently NO hole in the LCP's polymer frame at the right end of the takedown pin channel. There is a pin-diameter hole in each side of the aluminum sub-frame and on the right side of the LCP that hole peeks over the top of the polymer frame. All you might want to do is cut a very small notch in the top edge of the polymer frame.

Using a drill would be the wrong thing to do. In addition, using any cutting tool that goes through the hole in the sub-frame would probably be risking damaging the hole in the sub-frame. The best way to deal with the modification without damaging anything would be to completely remove the sub-frame after marking where the notch should be and then file a smooth notch into the polymer frame.

There is one reason that I would not do this mod at all, though. That's because a notch in the polymer frame could weaken the frame and cause it to crack when under the stress of firing the LCP.

 

[Mr_Shamrock]

There is currently NO hole in the LCP's polymer frame at the right end of the takedown pin channel. There is a pin-diameter hole in each side of the aluminum sub-frame and on the right side of the LCP that hole peeks over the top of the polymer frame. All you might want to do is cut a very small notch in the top edge of the polymer frame.

Using a drill would be the wrong thing to do. In addition, using any cutting tool that goes through the hole in the sub-frame would probably be risking damaging the hole in the sub-frame. The best way to deal with the modification without damaging anything would be to completely remove the sub-frame after marking where the notch should be and then file a smooth notch into the polymer frame.

There is one reason that I would not do this mod at all, though. That's because a notch in the polymer frame could weaken the frame and cause it to crack when under the stress of firing the LCP.

You are right, I stand corrected it would just need to be a small indent filed into the polymer part of the frame. It wouldn't need to be any larger than the hole that is drilled through the frame just to the rear and above the Ruger logo on the right side. Not sure if that would weaken it, but I guess I wouldn't want to take that chance either. It was just an idea.
I guess the best thing would be a stronger pin.

 

[Denny4kids]

I don't know how getting the pin out could be any easier! Open a small paper clip, smack it with a hammer just enough so its not round anymore, and push the pin out. I used a needle nose pliers. If you take your pin out and put the slide in battery position you can see daylight through the hole.
The video gets an A but the audio was too redundant for my taste. Here is a poor photo of mine. Den

 

[Mr_Shamrock]

I just noticed the LC9 has the set-up that I was trying to explain for the LCP.

 

[Sebring Pop]

Great video, worthy of being a sticky IMO. Thanks for creating the video.

YEA THAT !!!!!!!!! Thanks Pop

 

[BruceK]

*Great* to have videos posted for things like this... THANK YOU!!

 

[1917-1911M]

We had this discussion several years back. Here is a picture posted back then of the pin that can't be seen in the video. Good video and even a complete, undamaged pin can be removed this way. M1911

 

[1917-1911M]

Must be doing something wrong.....can't paste pictures to a post unless pasted before any typing. M1911

 

[melsealy]

Thanjs. Good to see such a good pic. of the access to the pin.

 

[Gomofast]

Great video, worthy of being a sticky IMO. Thanks for creating the video.

Thank you, I was hoping that this might make it to "Sticky" status one day.