Okay, so I was totally freaking out because I have dissasembled COMPLETELY my LCP twice now to repaint the frame and the second time the trigger was accidentally pulled and I couldn't figure out how to fix the fact that the trigger was spring loaded back and would not reset... Read this post, thought about it for a second and after palming my forhead a few times to accentuate the fact that I've been a bonehead, I fixed it by winding the spring COUNTER clockwise and setting it under the trigger bar. Now the trigger resets, the gun cycles, and all is well!!! If you want to know why I painted the frame, it is because it was a raspberry LCP I bought for my wife, and she doesn't want it anymore, and I am not a person who will sell a gun unless it is in the most extreme condition and I didn't want to be caught dead carrying a pink gun. So... paint. BTW, what is a good do it yourself paint to use? I used a paint good for plastics, and it seems okay, but it will definitely need re-done in the future due to wear. And now that I've figured out the why's and how's for dissasembly and re-assembly, I feel confident in repainting in the future.
Caution - Disassembly and the LCP's hammer block
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Here's a tip for working on anything with small parts that walk,jump,or run off your table. A terry cloth bath towel. Invest a few $$$ and buy one or use an old one that still has good pile to grab the little buggers. ;D Who amongst us has not been on the floor looking desperately for that one part that "got away" ?
I use a towel for carburetors , radios, watches, guns, small appliances and much more. Works great except for the springs that bounce off of the ceiling.
I use a towel for carburetors , radios, watches, guns, small appliances and much more. Works great except for the springs that bounce off of the ceiling.
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3,484 Posts
How's the weather in Spain? Iit’s been hot as heck here in South Carolina today. I went out by the lake to cool off. I noticed you post asking for assistance on reassembling the LCP this morning but see that you’ve been pretty much left alone.
It’s not a simple thing reassembling the LCP because of all those little parts and the design. Other than a basic field strip for cleaning or installing a heavier hammer spring most folks leave it alone. They send it back to the factory or get a local gunsmith to do the job.
But let’s see if I can help you “ORIENT” and figure out the problem. As far as the English goes you're going to have to work on that aspect.
The only pictures you will find are in the Ruger Owners instruction manual or ....
http://rugerpistolforums.com/forums/lcp-technical/1165-new-exploded-view.html
Here at the above link is a better view of the parts listing plus a closer look at some of those directional lines showing how the parts go back in. You might find it helpful to copy the photos, save them to your computer and print them out in a larger, full page size, for reference.
Go back to the start of this thread and start reading on the first page where “jocko” starts with his reassembly problems and read through the solutions found. There is a reason this thread is a “Sticky” and has been viewed 12,330 times. I've had a copy of it saved for years now.
It’s unique and you can Google or Search the web or INTERNET for “Reassembly of the Ruger LCP 380 and you’ll wind up back here.
When you get to Page 2, look at Section 10, and read through where “vdotmatrix” goes through the disassembly and the reassembly. If you have a word processing program on your computer, you can open the software; create a blank or new page. Then by selecting the text in the individual forum post, copy and paste the instruction onto your blank page.
Name the new document “Ruger LCP Disassembly” for example, giving vdotmatrix credit his work, if you chose, save it and print it out.
Between the step by step, vdotmatrix’s instructions and the parts exploded view you should be able to walk yourself through the reassembly.
Pay particular attention to getting Part 26, the Trigger Spring back in and insure that it’s tensioned counterclockwise.
You have to follow vdotmatrix’s instructions closely especially concerning the reset of the hammer block and inserting a pin to lock the block forward. Get it wrong and the alloy frame will not slide back into the grip.
After you have reassembled the thing, rack the slide, do a dry fire and see if it works. If not go back and start all over again and have at it.
I’ve never gone beyond a field stripping or cleaning with the LCP. Arthritis and dealing with the small parts would not be a good combination. I've done loads of disassembles of larger revolvers, pistols and rifles, but avoid mouse guns.
I've also spent hours figuring out how to get certain parts that just don't want to go back in. That have to be twisted or turned just right to go back in place. Over the years I've learned to do some good research before hand, take plenty of notes and even digital pictures of the "before" and "after" parts.
So I hope this helps.
Good luck.
It’s not a simple thing reassembling the LCP because of all those little parts and the design. Other than a basic field strip for cleaning or installing a heavier hammer spring most folks leave it alone. They send it back to the factory or get a local gunsmith to do the job.
But let’s see if I can help you “ORIENT” and figure out the problem. As far as the English goes you're going to have to work on that aspect.
The only pictures you will find are in the Ruger Owners instruction manual or ....
http://rugerpistolforums.com/forums/lcp-technical/1165-new-exploded-view.html
Here at the above link is a better view of the parts listing plus a closer look at some of those directional lines showing how the parts go back in. You might find it helpful to copy the photos, save them to your computer and print them out in a larger, full page size, for reference.
Go back to the start of this thread and start reading on the first page where “jocko” starts with his reassembly problems and read through the solutions found. There is a reason this thread is a “Sticky” and has been viewed 12,330 times. I've had a copy of it saved for years now.
It’s unique and you can Google or Search the web or INTERNET for “Reassembly of the Ruger LCP 380 and you’ll wind up back here.
When you get to Page 2, look at Section 10, and read through where “vdotmatrix” goes through the disassembly and the reassembly. If you have a word processing program on your computer, you can open the software; create a blank or new page. Then by selecting the text in the individual forum post, copy and paste the instruction onto your blank page.
Name the new document “Ruger LCP Disassembly” for example, giving vdotmatrix credit his work, if you chose, save it and print it out.
Between the step by step, vdotmatrix’s instructions and the parts exploded view you should be able to walk yourself through the reassembly.
Pay particular attention to getting Part 26, the Trigger Spring back in and insure that it’s tensioned counterclockwise.
You have to follow vdotmatrix’s instructions closely especially concerning the reset of the hammer block and inserting a pin to lock the block forward. Get it wrong and the alloy frame will not slide back into the grip.
After you have reassembled the thing, rack the slide, do a dry fire and see if it works. If not go back and start all over again and have at it.
I’ve never gone beyond a field stripping or cleaning with the LCP. Arthritis and dealing with the small parts would not be a good combination. I've done loads of disassembles of larger revolvers, pistols and rifles, but avoid mouse guns.
I've also spent hours figuring out how to get certain parts that just don't want to go back in. That have to be twisted or turned just right to go back in place. Over the years I've learned to do some good research before hand, take plenty of notes and even digital pictures of the "before" and "after" parts.
So I hope this helps.
Good luck.
Hello
The time here in Spain is quite hot, about 40 degrees Celsius.
After 6 hours mounting and dismounting finished very tired and discouraged.
But I remembered that we have a God great and it sounds like a joke when I was praying and then I tried again, the piece will fit perfectly.
Many thanks for the tips, you are very kind, but no longer dismount the gun ... jejejj
GOD BLESS
The time here in Spain is quite hot, about 40 degrees Celsius.
After 6 hours mounting and dismounting finished very tired and discouraged.
But I remembered that we have a God great and it sounds like a joke when I was praying and then I tried again, the piece will fit perfectly.
Many thanks for the tips, you are very kind, but no longer dismount the gun ... jejejj
GOD BLESS
Joined
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3,484 Posts
kajuken
Doing a guick conversion of Celsius to Farenheit it works out to 104 Degrees so we're both starting to sweat out a long hot Summer. I made a few trips to Spain years ago back when there were two American Air Force Bases there. They were called Torrejon and Zaragoza. I found Madrid to be a beautiful, historic place but found Barcelona to be more pleasant.
Back to the LCP...Six hours is a long time. Take a break put the thing away for awhile and come back it later on. I've put a few aside in the past and came back later and found that taking a break helps.
It takes some patience and a bit of studying and their can be a bit of frustration involved. I've mumbled a few words ocassionally during the process that could hardly be described as prayer. So maybe after you get it back together you'll definately chose to not dismount the gun. As a last resort you may have to find a local gunsmith who can give you some help. I have a few friends in the business who don't mind helping me work through a problem.
Doing a guick conversion of Celsius to Farenheit it works out to 104 Degrees so we're both starting to sweat out a long hot Summer. I made a few trips to Spain years ago back when there were two American Air Force Bases there. They were called Torrejon and Zaragoza. I found Madrid to be a beautiful, historic place but found Barcelona to be more pleasant.
Back to the LCP...Six hours is a long time. Take a break put the thing away for awhile and come back it later on. I've put a few aside in the past and came back later and found that taking a break helps.
It takes some patience and a bit of studying and their can be a bit of frustration involved. I've mumbled a few words ocassionally during the process that could hardly be described as prayer. So maybe after you get it back together you'll definately chose to not dismount the gun. As a last resort you may have to find a local gunsmith who can give you some help. I have a few friends in the business who don't mind helping me work through a problem.
Joined
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3,484 Posts
Glad to read about your trip to New York City.I've been there a couple of times, great place to visit but I would not want to live there.
Look at the above attachment, regarding the jejej that you use. No hablo. When comunicating online we use things like LOL, which symbolizes Laughing Out Loud. Which I suspect you're meaning. It's been decades since I really used a lot of spanish. I know enough of about 6 different languages to get myself in trouble or out of it sometimes. So I'll work with you on that part.
Take care.
Joined
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1 Posts
Confirmed. The pin goes down towards the magazine well. I made the mistake of taking down that pin and spent the better part of 8 hours, off and on, trying to get the pistol back together correctly.
So I went and disassembled my LCP and then items starting falling out and I was like "ohhh sh!t". Jumped on the PC and read this thread...ummmm to late. Took me about an hour to figure out how to get 27 and 16 back together and part 2 and 3 of this video helped:
As well as the replies here. Moral: Read before dissembling. Not all guns are the same...lol
As well as the replies here. Moral: Read before dissembling. Not all guns are the same...lol
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87 Posts
Looks easy enough, easy enough for me to screw up that is.
Wow, I really wish I had found this forum and read jocko's post first. I was trying to install a Hogue grip on my LCP and inadvertently punched out the middle pin instead of the far right frame pin. Rule #1... Don't get overly confident about the task at hand take your time and confirm what you are about to do twice It cost me $40.00 and an hour wait to have an experienced gunsmith fix it. He said it was quite a challenge too.
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