Ruger Pistol Forums banner

1 - 20 of 59 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,215 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
for those of you who MUST take their lcp competely all apart included taking the alloy frame off the grip, You will encounter a problem reinstalling the frame because of the hammer block which stays inside the grip and is NEVER TAKEN APART.

When you remove the front and back frame pin (leave the middle one alone) and then take the bottom plug out of the grip and remove the hammer spirng. An easy tool to do that is to take a coat hanger and cut it about 10 inches or so long, make a finger loop in one end and a pointed hook on the others. You can use this to remove the hammer spring with ease. don't over stretch it though..

That was the easy part. the frame will now just come out of the grip.

to reinstall is just as easy but look on the right side of the grip that tiny little hole is there for a reason. take a nail that fits in that hole or a punch or drill bit that fits in that hole and look down inside the grip. See that hammer block. just puch it allthe way forward and then push the punch/nail/bit through that hole. that locks the hammer block forward. now just slide the alloy frame back intothe grip and as you push down on it in the back then just remove the punch/bit/nail andyou have set the hammer block correctly. Otherwise the frame willnot go into place porperly. Thats what that little hole is for. really makes it simple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,499 Posts
Re: alittle hint

Jocko, you just saved more than a few from serious aggravation. Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Re: alittle hint

jocko!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I took my LCP all the way apart, thinking of course that I could easily put it back together. I looked at lots of posts, looked at the parts diagram, and understood what to do about the hammer block and the little hole.

But I just can't get my LCP back together right.

Everything seems fine but the trigger ends up all the way back and won't reset.

Is there a video, or a detail set of instructions, that can save me? I'm tearing my hair out after maybe 20 tries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
All is well. I figured it out. I wasn't install spring #26 correctly. I was tensioning it clockwise when it needed to be tensioned counter-clockwise. Gun works fine now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,215 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
SweetKnuckles said:
ttkt57 said:
Is there a video, or a detail set of instructions, that can save me? I'm tearing my hair out after maybe 20 tries.
I agree w/the South Dakotan...any good vid links on a detail strip/reassembly?
Not really. The main thing is the trigger bar and the litle spring that goes in the groove on the very bottom of the trigger bar. When taking that frame out of the grip this spring will slip off the trigger bar and most when assembling it, think the spring is wound clockwise and then put under the trigger bar, What will happen then is that the trigger will not reset, as many have found out. It is frustrating to say the least , as you now have the gun back together even.

The spring (the only spring which is up byt he trigger, is wound COUNTER CLOCK WISE and then installed under the trigger bar. Now your trigger will reset every time. really other than that, probalby no vidio is needed

To reset the frame inside the grip, the hammer block has to be set properly and if you will refer to my upper post about that little hole on the right side of the grip, that is also a no brainer. There is no reason to ever take that hammer block apart, other than if it or the spring breaks, which I have never heard of this ever happening with any of the 300,000 kt's which are out there plus ther 100,000 lcp that are now out there. That is a frustrating part to get back in also.

Nice to get to know your guns, but I don't take my car engine apart, so basically "IT IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Point taken, but I do generally like to do at least a nice detail strip of the slide and get all the heavy factory lube out of there.

Oh well, someone will make a youtube video of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
great post , good for us wanna be gunsmiths....some polishing on the rough spots could smooth out the action a little as long as safety is first...dont want to make her full auto accidently :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
hello...so I like to do my own gunsmithing on all my other guns, and I wanted to take apart the ruger LCP fully (which I know now I shouldn't)...I'm not concerned with warranty...after fully taking apart the LCP I struggled with getting the one spring that attaches to some sort of pivot under the hammer back on...it's a coiled "V" shaped spring (hammer catch spring)...my question is if that particular spring is susceptible to breaking, and if it does break, will that cause the gun to release the hammer and fire the gun in any way....fyi, I got it all put back together...and it works fine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
For those of you who haven't had the LCP apart, the reason that a previous post may have advised to raise the front of the FRAME INSERT (12), is that this method "may" prevent releasing the spring pressure on the HAMMER CATCH (27). If you can do it that way, well OK then, but be aware that you'll be dealing with the spring compression from the HAMMER SPRING (25) when you do it this way, and if you hear and feel something go “pop,” that’s probably the HAMMER CATCH (27) releasing and it will need to be “reset.”

Here's a more complete and detailed method. It’s not too complicated really, but if you’re not mechanically inclined it’s better to find a friend who is or send your LCP to Ruger and have them do it.

1. Unload and remove the SLIDE (1) assembly. Set the slide assembly aside. Degrease the frame to prepare to work. Don't fight the lube; wipe it off as you go.

2. Work in a well lit area where you will not lose small parts, especially springs which could go flying if you lose your grip on them. A small bench vise with protective jaws or inserts is VERY helpful while doing this and HIGHLY recommended as you’ll need 3 hands if you’re anything like me.

3. Remove the HAMMER SPRING SEAT (34) by inserting a punch or jewelers screwdriver into the catch hole on the lower rear of the frame. Don't force it. Once you release the catch, it'll come out with simple hand force.

4. Make a loop of a small strong wire (a straightened paper clip works very well) about 1.5” in diameter and twist the ends. Catch the bottom hook of the HAMMER SPRING (25) with this wire and insert a punch or screwdriver shaft through your wire loop. Unseat the HAMMER SPRING (25) by pulling up and remove it from the HAMMER SPRING SEAT PIN (33). Allow the spring it to retract into the frame. Remove the HAMMER SPRING PIN (33).

5. Using a 1/8” punch, drift both FRAME INSERT PINS (29) out. They will drift in either direction.

6. Lift out the FRAME INSERT (12) assembly. You will hear and feel the “pop” of the HAMMER CATCH (27) releasing when it unseats from the HAMMER (23) as you lift.

WARNING: DO NOT PULL THE TRIGGER while it is out of the frame as this will unseat the TRIGGER BAR (18) and HAMMER CATCH SPRING (26).

CAUTION: The HAMMER SPRING RETAINER PIN (22), which holds the HAMMER (23) in the frame may have a loose fit and fall out.

7. Hold your finger over the body of the HOLD OPEN DETENT (21) spring to retain it in its housing and unseat the spring from the HOLD OPEN (19) using a pair of sharp nose tweezers or tiny jewelers screwdriver. Remove the HOLD OPEN DETENT (21) spring from its housing being careful so it won’t go flying and be lost.

8. Slide the HOLD OPEN (19) out of its channel toward the top of the FRAME INSERT (12) and insert the new one. Be patient and don’t force it.

9. Insert the body of the HOLD OPEN DETENT (21) spring into its housing and using a pair of sharp nose tweezers or tiny jewelers screwdriver insert the spring arm into the HOLD OPEN(19) groove. Check the operation of the HOLD OPEN (21).

10. Using a small diameter punch or flat bladed jewelers screwdriver, move the HAMMER CATCH (27) forward and hold it there against spring pressure. Place the FRAME INSERT (12) assembly into the frame, trigger end first, and lower into place until the HAMMER (23) engages with the HAMMER CATCH (27). Remove the punch or screwdriver and fully seat the FRAME INSERT (12) assembly into the frame.

CAUTION: Hold the FRAME INSERT (12) assembly in place until you get the FRAME INSERT PINS (29) started as the spring pressure on the HAMMER CATCH (27) may cause it to unseat.

11. Install the two FRAME INSERT PINS (29) into the frame and lightly tap back into their holes.

12. Install the HAMMER SPRING SEAT PIN (33) into its housing grooves on the frame. Catch the bottom hook of the HAMMER SPRING (25) with your wire loop that you made for this. Insert a punch or screwdriver shaft into this loop and pull the HAMMER SPRING (25) up and onto the HAMMER SPRING SEAT PIN (33).

NOTE: There are two detent grooves on the HAMMER SPRING SEAT PIN (33) - use the rearward groove which will properly align the HAMMER SPRING (25) in its channel in the grip of the frame so as not to interfere with the magazine.

13. Reinstall the HAMMER SPRING SEAT (34) and reinstall the SLIDE (1) assembly.

14. Perform a complete operational check of the weapon. Recommend that you also test fire the weapon prior to carrying it as your carry gun, just to be sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,366 Posts
Re: alittle hint

kraigster414 said:
Jocko, you just saved more than a few from serious aggravation. Thank you.
No kidding. Call me one of the "few". I've been studying the exploded diagram and reading the posts, in case I ever have to take the LCP apart. I would have missed the coat hanger and little hole part completely. That's were the experience part of all this comes in.

On the Sig Mosquito I own you have to take light wire and secure a couple of parts together to prevent their separating or it's a real bear getting them back in during reassembly. An armorers CD would sure help.

Mouse Guns and 22s because of their size require caution, compared to larger weapons, but as the design of the Ruger LCP is to say rather unique.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
It was very frustrating when I missed the part about not taking that out. What was more frustrating is the fact that the entire internet only says: "Dont take it out" rather than telling us morons who take it out how to fix it. I'm planning to make a video about putting it back in.... It's not impossible to figure out on your own but I had a disassembled LCP for 2 weeks cause I didn't have the confidence or time to figure it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,915 Posts
Thanks for all the great info......You guys are great mechanics........... 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
jocko said:
for those of you who MUST take their lcp competely all apart included taking the alloy frame off the grip, You will encounter a problem reinstalling the frame because of the hammer block which stays inside the grip and is NEVER TAKEN APART.

When you remove the front and back frame pin (leave the middle one alone) and then take the bottom plug out of the grip and remove the hammer spirng. An easy tool to do that is to take a coat hanger and cut it about 10 inches or so long, make a finger loop in one end and a pointed hook on the others. You can use this to remove the hammer spring with ease. don't over stretch it though..

That was the easy part. the frame will now just come out of the grip.

to reinstall is just as easy but look on the right side of the grip that tiny little hole is there for a reason. take a nail that fits in that hole or a punch or drill bit that fits in that hole and look down inside the grip. See that hammer block. just puch it allthe way forward and then push the punch/nail/bit through that hole. that locks the hammer block forward. now just slide the alloy frame back intothe grip and as you push down on it in the back then just remove the punch/bit/nail andyou have set the hammer block correctly. Otherwise the frame willnot go into place porperly. Thats what that little hole is for. really makes it simple.
Ok, so I screwed up and removed the pin that holds the hammer block (part 27) and the related spring (part 16) in the frame. After some fun (NOT) I think I have everything back together. Elsie seems to work just fine while testing with snap caps but can someone please answer a question to put my mind at ease. When the hammer block and spring (part 16) is installed back in the polymer frame, does the long end of the spring point downwards into the Mag well/handle of the gun? Thanks for any help you gan give me. I just want to make sure I got everything in correctly before I live fire Elsie.





(Mod repaired quote)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
282 Posts
Now this is a group of posts that I will definately print out and store with the manual and hopefully it will be a waste of time...but just in case. Thanks guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
Sailboater said:
Now this is a group of posts that I will definately print out and store with the manual and hopefully it will be a waste of time...but just in case. Thanks guys
Sailboater, that is so simple it is brilliant! What would we ever do if the ElsiePea Server crashed ???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
:eek:
Yes, I agree. (SMACK-ing myself in the head) for not thinking of that myself.
What an easy way to compile future notes ! !
 
1 - 20 of 59 Posts
Top